And that may work, but it's not really ANR glass. Some say that you can use museum grade glass from a photo frame. It's not that easy to find true ANR glass. With the negative on a larger piece of ANR glass you can raise it to the desired height with a DIY holder.You can tape the negative to the glass to keep the negative flat and in position (see below photos).The ANR glass prevents Newton Rings - or at least 99% of the time.Taking all of the above into account, the best solution (for me) so far seems to be using ANR (Anti Newton Ring) glass - which serves three purposes: Most likely another reason why the scanner does not focus directly above the glass, but a few militmeters higher.
Vuescan settings series#
Newton rings appear as a series of concentric, alternating bright and dark rings centered at the point of contact between the two surfaces. These are the result of putting two shiny objects directly on top of each other - in this case a negative on top of glass. So you're really on your own trying to figure out how much to raise the holder.Īnd yet another problem Newton Rings. To complicate things further, every Epson scanner apparently focuses at a slightly different height. Which makes sense because the Epson's lenses focus a few milimeter above the scanner glass. All scans are out of focus if I do it that way. Scanning with the negative directly on the glass (without a holder) seems to work for some people, but with my Epson it really doesn't.
So without using those holders, what can you do. But Vuescan gets me good results, I by now know its quirks - so I'll stick with it. However, I tried it and I find Vuescan easier to use and the results seem better too. Silverfast does in fact also lets you scan to RAW/DNG, and a free licence is included with the Epson.
Vuescan settings software#
Without any color balancing or other software interpretation of the underlying raw data.
Vuescan lets you scan to DNG (Digital Negative) i.e. I figured it had to be possible to create RAW files with the Epson too.Īfter learning about Vuescan which does indeed offer that feature, I decided to buy that software. Using RAW files largely contributed to getting better/more consistent results in my opinion. With my DSLR (a Nikon D850 with a 60mm macro lens), I'd been shooting RAW/NEF files which I then converted with Negative Lab Pro. You can read about this here: Scanning with an Epson V850: an update. I was convinced that my mediocre results from the Epson were simply because I didn't use the right settings or software.Ī while ago I've started scanning with my negatives sandwiched between two pieces of ANR glass. So I decided to give the Epson another go. I had seen great scans that others made with the V850 which is why I bought one in the first place. When I bought my Cambo 4x5 camera however, I quickly realized that using a DSLR to scan those large negatives is far from ideal. And more control over the final look of my scans.
Vuescan settings pro#
And with Negative Lab Pro to convert my negatives to positives, I almost instantly got better looking results.
Vuescan settings how to#
In any case, I had not used it much because shortly after I bought the Epson, I found out about the Negative Lab Pro plug-in for Adobe Lightroom, and how to create scans with a digital camera.ĭSLR scanning has its problems too, but it was so much faster.
Sure, I love working with old camera's - but the clunky user interface of both programs will quickly remind you that not everything that's old is nice to work with. I tried both Epson scan and Silverfast scanning software - included with the V850. Before I got into DSLR scanning with my digital camera, I bought an Epson V850 to scan my negatives.
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